Upscale Cats

Cat Behavior around Prey

Written by Steven Fletcher on December 18, 2011

When you think of cat behavior around prey the first thing that comes to mind is probably stalking. But have you ever observed your cat watching a bird through a window and start moving his/her mouth rapidly and making funny noises? That’s called cat chatter. When a bird chirps near a cat, the cat focuses on the bird and then starts chattering, sometimes with the cat’s “mouth moving in sync with the bird’s beak.” Scientists have actually observed a wildcat mimicking the sounds of its prey in a study in the Amazon forests. Fabio Rohe, a scientist participating in this study thinks that all cats may have a cunning ability to mimic the sounds of their prey, and that feral cats may actually use this technique to fool their prey and catch them. Veterinary doctor Patty Khuly, writing in today’s edition of the Miami Herald, shares her thoughts about this interesting behavior. Here’s an excerpt from her article, responding to a reader’s question, entitled “Cats get chatty watching wildlife.”

Q. My three cats live indoors, so I built them a window box. I like that they can pretend to live outside and enjoy the mental stimulation of hunting without killing the lizards, birds and squirrels. But they’ve all started doing this new thing with their teeth when they stare at the wildlife. It looks and sounds like they’re chattering just like squirrels sometimes do. Is this normal? What does it mean?

Don’t worry; it’s perfectly normal. Many cats make that odd chattering sound as they’re staring longingly at birds, rodents or lizards just beyond their reach. What it means, though, isn’t such an easy thing to answer.

This interesting behavior is most often ascribed to the simulation of a rapid-fire movement the feline jaw performs as it engages its prey during an attack. In other words, they’re going through the mental and physical exercise of killing their prey without actually doing it. According to this line of reasoning, cats may chatter out of a Pavlovian sort of response in the same way a dog would salivate in anticipation of a meal.

Some cat watchers say cats who chatter are mimicking the sound of their prey by way of attracting them, but that doesn’t ring true to plenty of behaviorists. Cats are typically stealthy, soundless hunters whose prey would almost certainly be alerted should they engage in such chatterbox behavior in the wild.

Some behaviorists suggest that what our house cats are engaging in is a simple display of pent-up frustration. When faced with prey they can’t directly attack, they redirect their energies toward this ineffectual but apparently satisfying behavior.”

If you haven’t heard you cat chattering before, take a look at this youtube video, and you’ll know right away. It’s obvious that something is going on other than most types of meows you hear coming out of your cat’s mouth.

I haven’t heard any of the experts saying whether or not this type of cat behavior around prey is healthy for your indoor cat. My thought is that type of behavior is natural and it’s better for my cats to be engaged in something interesting, in contrast with their normal daytime sleeping habits. Please let us know what your thoughts are!

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Image credit: “Stalking” by Henry Bush/Flickr

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Cats Health – Bathing Your Cat

Written by Steven Fletcher on December 17, 2011

Do you think bathing your cat is important? Most cats are pretty good at tongue bathing, but if your cat gets into something sticky or smelly, or gets really dirty you may need to give him/her a bath. To prepare for a bath you should buy cat shampoo. Consider diluting it with water. A plastic or rubber mat placed in the bottom of the tub or sink can help to keep your cat in one place. Run a few inches of lukewarm water for the bath, and place a dry towel within easy reach. Comb or brush out your cat’s hair before the bath to remove loose hair and dirt. Hold your cat gently by the scruff of the neck and use a hand held sprayer or pitcher to wet him/her down, then lather your cat with the shampoo. Work your way from head to tail in the same direction as the hair grows, but be careful to avoid your cat’s face and ears. You can gently use a washcloth if necessary on the face, preferably just with water. Carefully rinse all of the shampoo off of your cat with more lukewarm water, then wrap him/her in a dry towel. Dry and finish with a comb out if you cat has long hair.

What’s that? You say bathing your cat is easier said than done? You could be right. For your entertainment, here’s an excerpt from “Cat Bathing as a Martial Art”, published by Bud Herron in the Jan 1985 edition of the Saturday Evening Post.

Some people say cats never have to be bathed. They say cats lick themselves clean. They say cats have a special enzyme of some sort in their saliva that works like new, improved Wisk–dislodging the dirt where it hides and whisking it away.

I’ve spent most of my life believing this folklore. Like most blind believers, I’ve been able to discount all the facts to the contrary–the kitty odors that lurk in the corners of the garage and dirt smudges that cling to the throw rugby the fireplace.

The time comes, however, when a man must face reality; when he must look squarely in the face of massive public sentiment to the contrary and announce: “This cat smells like a port-a-potty on a hot day in Juarez.”

When that day arrives at your house, as it has at mine, I have some advice you might consider as you place your feline friend under your arm and head for the bathtub:

Know that cats are not reasonable creatures. Though you might want to sit the cat down and discuss his odor eyeball-to-eyeball, don’t expect him to understand. I have known only one or two cats in my entire life who could carry on a rational conversation and reach conclusions based on reasoning. If you tell the typical cat he stinks and therefore must have a bath, you will only warn him of his fate and make him that much more obstinate.

Know that although the cat has the advantage of quickness and lack of concern for human life, you have the advantage of strength. Capitalize on that advantage by selecting the battlefield. Don’t try to bathe him in an open area where he can force you to chase him. Pick a very small bathroom. If your bathroom is more than four feet square, I recommend that you get in the tub with the cat and close the sliding-glass doors as if you were about to take a shower. (A simple shower curtain will not do. A berserk cat can shred a three-ply rubber shower curtain quicker than a politician can shift positions.)

Know that a cat has claws and will not hesitate to remove all the skin from your body. Your advantage here is that you are smart and know how to dress to protect yourself. I recommend canvas overalls tucked into high-top construction boots, a pair of steel-mesh gloves, an army helmet, a hockey face mask, and a long-sleeve flak jacket.

Prepare everything in advance. There is no time to go out for a towel when you have a cat digging a hole in your flak jacket. Draw the water. Make sure the bottle of kitty shampoo is inside the glass enclosure. Make sure the towel can be reached, even if you are lying on your back in the water.

Use the element of surprise. Pick up your cat nonchalantly, as if to simply carry him to his supper dish. (Cats will not usually notice your strange attire. They have little or no interest in fashion as a rule. If he does notice your garb, calmly explain that you are taking part in a product-testing experiment for J.C. Penney.)

Once you are inside the bathroom, speed is essential to survival. In a single liquid motion, shut the bathroom door, step into the tub enclosure, slide the glass door shut, dip the cat in the water and squirt him with shampoo. You have now begun one of the wildest 45 seconds of your life. Cats have no handles. Add the fact that he now has soapy fur, and the problem is radically compounded. Do not expect to hold on to him for more than two or three seconds at a time. When you have him, however, you must remember to give him another squirt of shampoo and rub like crazy. He’ll then spring free and fall back into the water, thereby rinsing himself off. (The national record is–for cats–three latherings, so don’t expect too much.)

Next, the cat must be dried. Novice cat bathers always assume this part will be the most difficult, for humans generally are worn out at this point and the cat is just getting really determined. In fact, the drying is simple compared to what you have just been through. That’s because by now the cat is semipermanently affixed to your right leg. You simply pop the drain plug with your foot, reach for your towel and wait. (Occasionally, however, the eat will end up clinging to the top of your army helmet. If this happens, the best thing you can do is to shake him loose and to encourage him toward your leg.) After all the water is drained from the tub, it is a simple matter to just reach down and dry the cat.

In a few days the cat will relax enough to be removed from your leg. He will usually have nothing to say for about three weeks and will spend a lot of time sitting with his back to you. He might even become psychoceramic and develop the fixed stare of a plaster figurine.

You will be tempted to assume he is angry. This isn’t usually the case. As a rule he is simply plotting ways to get through your defenses and injure you for life the next time you decide to give him a bath.”

If you have any favorite stories about bathing your cat we would love to hear them. Suggestions for making the job easier are also welcome. Please leave your replies below. Thanks!

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Cats Health in Cold Weather

Written by Steven Fletcher on December 16, 2011

Do you worry about your cats health in cold weather? One of our cats loves to play in the snow, but I would be worried if he had to spend a night outside that was cold enough for snow. There are of course many outside cats who survive cold nights just fine, but I always wonder how cold is too cold for a cat? The average cat’s body temperature is around 101° F, and your cat needs fuel to keep his/her little furnace burning through the night. Of course cat furnace fuel is food, and he/she may need more of it in cold weather.

To find out if there’s a magic temperature that’s too cold for your cat, read this excerpt from “How Cold is too Cold for our Pets?” published on petmd.com by Dr. Patty Khuly.

It’s cold today in Miami. OK, maybe not according to the standards held by anyone who happens to live north of Florida, but chilly for us nonetheless. This is perhaps why we’re so weird about our pets and cold weather. We’re just not used to it, so we get a tad freaky about it.

As in this question asked by a Miami Herald reader, followed by my answer, published over the weekend in advance of this sub-freezing-temp cold front:

Q: I take care of a number of outdoor cats, who aren’t always around for me to bring in when it gets cold outside. When the news media tells us to bring all our pets indoors on chilly nights, I worry desperately for my babies. I’ve been wondering whether they’re suffering, and what your opinion is on what temperature is absolutely too low for cats.

A: I’ve often wondered the same. To what extent does inclement weather — hot, cold, windy or wet — truly affect the cats who make the out of doors their permanent homes? The answer will vary tremendously based on a variety of circumstances. Here’s a short list:

1. Overall health

2. Regular access to food and water

3. Familiarity with surroundings

4. Access to an appropriate shelter

All will play into how desperately lousy the weather can be before an animal’s health will be affected (the metric for suffering I’ve chosen to apply in this case).

So it is that a healthy, well-fed cat who lives under the crawl space of an old Coral Gables home may not care whether it’s 100 or 20 degrees outside; she’s always going to be comfortable. But the old girl who lives on your porch and sleeps in the bushes under your window may not fare so well if the temperature dips below fifty.

As you can see, there is no magic number on the thermometric scale that should lead anyone — except perhaps the meteorology people who seem to love to talk about pets — to conclude that a 40 degree night is deadly.

Indeed, it could be for a debilitated animal, but truth be told, only the sickest and most exposed animals are seriously at risk, as long as temperatures remain above freezing (32°F). The rule of thumb is that when temps dip below 32 degrees, frostbite and severe hypothermia become more pressing concerns.

Thankfully, frozen nights are very few and far between around these parts, so I would tend to think your outdoor cats are finding themselves cozy places to hide that would likely surprise you for their ingenuity.

If optimum comfort is what you seek, nothing beats indoor living. But if this proves elusive, keeping cats sheltered from the cold and wind is doable in the confines of your own back yard. Taking a simple bale of hay to a windless spot should provide ample opportunity for winter-long safety.”

We would love to hear about any accommodations you make for your cats health in cold weather, especially if your cat is an outdoor cat or if it sleeps in your garage or other unheated area. Please leave your comments below. Thanks!

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Cat Behavior Modification

Written by Steven Fletcher on December 15, 2011

Cat behavior modification is just what the doctor ordered if your cat won’t stop scratching your chairs, even though you’ve provided a scratching post. And the first step, according to veterinary doctor Lorie Huston, is to know what normal cat behavior is, then help your cat to express that behavior in an acceptable, less destructive manner. If you have more than one cat and they fight, the answer may be in recognizing your cats territorial instincts and providing places for a picked upon cat to retreat and hide. Or the problem could be reducing the stress that your cat feels, as Dr. Huston describes in an article published on pet-health-care-gazette.com. In this case, the use of commercially available feline pheromones could be the answer.

Here’s an excerpt from Dr. Huston’s article, entitled “Feline Behavior Modification Tips.”

The first step in correcting feline behavior problems is to recognize why your cat is exhibiting the behavior and to recognize normal cat behaviors. Feline behavior modification can be used to correct what we, as cat owners, see as behavior problems. In many cases, we are actually directing the cat toward another outlet for the behavior. In other cases, we will be trying to reduce the amount of stress experienced by the cat and reduce “abnormal” or undesirable behaviors that occur as a result of that stress.

Make Your Cat Feel Safe with Perches and Hiding Places to Modify Feline Behavior

Cats like to rest on elevated perches where they feel safe from predation and can survey the area surrounding them. Providing adequate numbers of perches for all cats in a household is extremely important. Cat condos can be used and even the back rests of furniture are often claimed by cats as perches. One of my cats likes the top of the refrigerator.

Cats also need hiding places where they feel secure. These should be places where the cat can retreat if he feels threatened or frightened or even if he just wants to be alone for a while. Cat beds, cardboard boxes, and medium to large carriers or crates (left open so the cat can enter and exit freely) are all suitable hiding places. Cats will also frequently hide under beds and furniture as well. In multi-cat households, there should be adequate numbers of hiding places available for all cats. Cats may prefer not to share their hiding spots.

Providing Scratching Areas and Entertainment for Your Cat is Part of a Feline Behavior Modification Program

Scratching posts should be provided to allow cats to sharpen claws and stretch muscles. These are normal cat behaviors and if you do not provide a place for your cat to do so, he will choose his own spot. Some cats prefer upright scratching posts while others prefer flat surfaces. Cat owners may need to experiment to find out which their cat prefers.

Toys are also helpful. These can be used to simulate a cat’s normal prey behavior. Experimentation may be necessary to determine which type of toy an individual cat prefers. Some cats prefer toys with feathers, some prefer toys which can be pulled along the ground and other prefer things like laser pointers which can simulate the movement of an insect. Toys also provide a great way for cat owners to interact with their cats and can provide much-needed exercise.”

If you think a little cat behavior modification might be in order in your household, all is not grim and bleak. For some fun ideas to reduce the stressors in your favorite cat’s life, check out our free ebook, “17 Ways to Pamper your Cat.” Just leave your contact information in the form to the right of this post, and we’ll get it right to you!

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Cats Health – Estate Planning for your Cat

Written by Steven Fletcher on December 14, 2011

Estate planning for your cat might be easier if you had $13 million, like Tommaso the cat’s now deceased owner. Ninety-four year old Maria Assunta passed away last month and left her fortune to Tommaso, elevating the one-time alley cat to the position of world’s richest cat. Before her demise Ms. Assunta had asked her attorneys to find an animal welfare society for her to leave her money to, with the condition that they would also assume Tommaso’s care. For unknown reasons that search was not successful so Assunta just named Tommaso in her will as her sole heir. You might not have $13 million to bequeath to your cat, but you might have a family member or close friend that you know would care for your cat should you pass away. If not, you might be curious about the best way to plan for your cat’s future care. Law professor Gerry W. Beyer has recently published on his website, several frequently asked questions with his answers about estate planning for your cat.

Here’s an excerpt from his post.

1. What is a “pet trust”?

A pet trust is legal technique you may use to be sure your pet receives proper care after you die or in the event of your disability.

2. How does a pet trust work?

You (the “settlor”) give your pet and enough money or other property to a trusted person or bank (the “trustee”) who is under a duty to make arrangements for the proper care of your pet according to your instructions. The trustee will deliver the pet to your designated caregiver (the “beneficiary”) and then use the property you transferred to the trust to pay for your pet’s expenses.

3. What are the main types of pet trusts?

There are two main types of pet trusts.

The first type, called a “traditional pet trust,” is effective in all states. You tell the trustee to help the person who is providing care to your pet after you die (the beneficiary) by paying for the pet’s expenses according to your directions as long as the beneficiary takes proper care of your pet.

The second type of pet trust, called a “statutory pet trust,” is authorized in over 40 states. A statutory pet trust is a basic plan and does not require the pet owner to make as many decisions regarding the terms of the trust. The state law “fills in the gaps” and thus a simple provision in a will such as, “I leave $1,000 in trust for the care of my dog, Rover” may be effective.

4. Which type of pet trust is “better”?

Many pet owners will prefer the traditional pet trust because it provides the pet owner with the ability to have tremendous control over the pet’s care. For example, you may specify who manages the property (the trustee), the pet’s caregiver (the beneficiary), what type of expenses relating to the pet the trustee will pay, the type of care the animal will receive, what happens if the beneficiary can no longer care for the animal, and the disposition of the pet after the pet dies.

5. What if my state does not have a special law authorizing pet trusts?

You may still create a traditional pet trust even if your state does not have a pet trust statute.

6. When is a pet trust created?

You may create a pet trust either (1) while you are still alive (an “inter vivos” or “living” trust) or (2) when you die by including the trust provisions in your will (a “testamentary” trust).

7. Which is better – an inter vivos or testamentary pet trust?

Both options have their advantages and disadvantages.

An inter vivos trust takes effect immediately and thus will be functioning when you die or become disabled. This avoids delay between your death and the property being available for the pet’s care. However, an inter vivos trust often has additional start-up costs and administration fees.

A testamentary trust is the less expensive option because the trust does not take effect until you die and your will is declared valid by a court (“probating the will”). However, there may not be funds available to care for the pet during the gap between when you die and your will is probated. In addition, a testamentary trust does not protect your pet if you become disabled and unable to care for your pet.

8. What does it mean to “fund” your pet trust?

Funding means to transfer money or other property into your trust for the care of your pet. Without funding, the trustee will not be able to provide your pet with care if you become disabled and after you die.

9. How much property do I need to fund my pet trust?

You need to consider many factors in deciding how much money or other property to transfer to your pet trust. These factors include the type of animal, the animal’s life expectancy (especially important in case of long-lived animals), the standard of living you wish to provide for the animal, the need for potentially expensive medical treatment, and whether the trustee is to be paid for his or her services. Adequate funds should also be included to provide the animal with proper care, be it an animal-sitter or a professional boarding business, when the caregiver is on vacation, out-of-town on business, receiving care in a hospital, or is otherwise temporarily unable personally to provide for the animal.

The size of your estate must also be considered. If your estate is relatively large, you could transfer sufficient property so the trustee could make payments primarily from the income and use the principal only for emergencies. On the other hand, if your estate is small, you may wish to transfer a lesser amount and anticipate that the trustee will supplement trust income with principal invasions as necessary . . .

10. When do I fund my pet trust?

If you create an inter vivos pet trust, that is, a trust which takes effect while you are alive, you need to fund the trust at the time it is created. You may also add additional funds to the trust at a later time or use the techniques discussed below.

If you create a testamentary pet trust, that is, the trust is contained in your will and does not take effect until you die, then you need to fund the trust by a provision in your will or by using one of the techniques discussed below.

11. How do I fund my pet trust?

Direct transfers: If you create your trust while you are alive, you need to transfer money or other property to the trustee. You need to be certain to document the transfer and follow the appropriate steps based on the type of property. For example, if you are transferring money, write a check which shows the payee as, “[name of trustee], trustee of the [name of pet trust], in trust” and then indicate on the memo line that the money is for “contribution to [name of pet trust].” If you are transferring land, your attorney should prepare a deed naming the grantee with language such as “[name of trustee], in trust, under the terms of the [name of pet trust].”

If you create the trust in your will, you should include a provision in the property distribution section of your will which transfers both your pet and the assets to care for your pet to the trust. For example, “I leave [description of pet] and [amount of money and/or description of property] to the trustee, in trust, under the terms of the [name of pet trust] created under Article [number] of this will.”

Pour over will provision: If you create your pet trust while you are alive, you may add property (a “pour over”) from your estate to the trust. . .

12. How do I decide on the individual to name as my pet’s caregiver?

The selection of the caregiver for your pet is extremely important. Here are some of the key considerations:

· Willingness to assume the responsibilities associated with caring for your pet.

· Ability to provide a stable home for your pet.

· Harmonious relationship between the caregiver’s family members and your pet.

13. Should I name alternate caregivers?

Yes. You should name at least one, preferably two or three, alternate caregivers in case your first choice is unable or unwilling to serve as your pet’s caregiver. To avoid having your pet end up without a home, consider naming a sanctuary or no-kill shelter as your last choice.

14. What types of instructions should I include in my pet trust regarding the care of my pet?

Here are some examples of the types of concerns about which you may wish to provide instructions:

· Food and diet.

· Daily routines.

· Toys.

· Cages.

· Grooming.

· Socialization.

· Medical care, including preferred veterinarian.

· Compensation, if any, for the caregiver.

· Method the caregiver must use to document expenditures for reimbursement.

· Whether the trust will pay for liability insurance in case the animal bites or otherwise injures someone.

· How the trustee is to monitor caregiver’s services.
· How to identify the animal.
· Disposition of the pet’s remains, e.g., burial, cremation, memorial, etc.

FAQs revised on Thursday, November 17, 2011.

Estate planning for your cat is a great idea, but don’t forget to take advantage of the time you have now to pamper your cat. For some great ideas request your free copy of “17 Ways to Pamper your Cat.” Just leave your contact information in the box to the right of this article, and we’ll get it right to you.

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Cats Health – Declawing Banned in Israel

Written by Steven Fletcher on December 13, 2011

When it comes to cats health declawing turns out to be more of a serious medical procedure than you might have thought. You might be less surprised to find out that declawing is most popular in the U.S. It’s often a convenient solution to preventing furniture damage, but many cat owners don’t understand the consequences of that solution to their cherished cat.

Before you decide to have your cat declawed, you need to understand that this is a medical procedure that goes way beyond manicuring. Your cat’s claws are attached to bones in their toes. Removing a claw requires amputating the last bone of your the cat’s toe. This requires a painful surgery followed by a painful recuperation, during which the cat has to walk, jump, and scratch in its litter box in spite of the resultant pain. Madeline Bernstein, President/CEO of the Los Angeles chapter of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, has just written an article about cat declawing from an international perspective, published in Technorati.com.

Here’s an excerpt from her article.

Israel Bans Cat Declawing

Israel has joined the list of over 20 countries to ban cat declawing. Unless performed within the narrow medical necessity exemptions, the procedure has been declared, by Israel’s legislature, to be a crime, punishable by up to 1 year in jail and a fine of up to $20,000. Countries on the list include England, Norway, France and Portugal. The practice is legal in the United States.

Declawing is primarily an elective surgery, known as an onychectomy, which eliminates the claws by amputating part of the toes. It would be analogous to cutting ones fingers off at the top knuckle. It is not a manicure. The procedure is painful, can affect the cat’s behavior permanently, and will render the cat defenseless should he/she leave the house.

. . . an onychectomy is usually requested so a pet cat will not scratch, ruin furniture or require weekly nail trimmings. Some justify the procedure by asserting that more cats would be euthanized as families simply don’t want to deal with the claws and would not adopt the cats.

Providing a cat with designated scratching areas, capping their claws with glue on soft nail tips, and learning how to keep nails trim are all humane and practical alternatives to elective surgery.

Finally, choosing fabrics and floors that are stylish, pet friendly, resist and camouflage hair and scratches allows for matching the decor to the cat rather than surgically altering the cat to match the decor. Additionally, decorating with pets in mind will ultimately reduce stress and foster a lasting bond between the humans and their companion animals.”

For more information about cat scratching and providing safe outlets for that instinct, please ask for our free ebook, “17 Ways to Pamper Your Cat.” Just provide your contact information to the right of this article and we’ll be happy to provide it to you.

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Cats Health – Cat Proof Your Home

Written by Steven Fletcher on December 11, 2011

Cat proof your home this holiday season, not just for Christmas, Hanukkah and Kwanzaa, but for all seasons. Actually it’s pretty hard to keep a cat out of a Christmas tree, but there are precautions you can take. Pine needles are toxic to cats, so consider an artificial one. Make sure your tree has a solid base to keep it from being knocked over and not too close to other furniture that which your cat might mistake for a launch pad. Swallowed tinsel can be very dangerous to a cat so consider beads instead. Put your delicate ornaments higher up on the tree and consider plastic ornaments closer to the floor. Avoid artificial snow, which is also toxic to cats, and make sure any lit candles are out of reach.

Ilene Springer, writing for Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine highlights some common household risks for cats not just for the holidays but for anytime.

Here’s an excerpt from her article.

Ways to Cat Proof Your Home

. . . You may think you went through enough when you baby-proofed your home to prepare for the new arrival. “But any issue that is important for your baby’s safety also holds true for a cat,” says Steve Dullard, DVM, president-elect of the American Association of Feline Practitioners. Therefore, it’s just as important to take steps to make your home as safe as possible for your cat or kitten.

Watch out for Windows

Contrary to what many people believe, cats do jump or fall from high places – and they do get injured, sometimes seriously. Make sure your window screens are securely fastened. Cats can squeeze through remarkably small spaces, so don’t leave your windows open even a small amount. If you let your cat out on a terrace, make sure you supervise him. Cats, as agile as they are, can fall from a railing if they leap at a passing bird . . .

Everything in the Mouth

Think of your inquisitive cat or kitten as a small child: Anything that attracts them will go into the mouth. This includes paper clips, carpet tacks, pins, coins and the small parts of kids’ toys. If your cat gets hold of these objects, they may become lodged in her throat or swallowed and caught in the intestines.

You must also be very careful regarding medicines and cats. Human drugs can be very toxic to felines. “Never give a medicine meant for a human to a cat before consulting your veterinarian,” says Dr. Dullard. Keep all medicines in tightly closed containers and in a cabinet out of reach of a curious cat who likes to jump on counters and sinks. If you drop a pill on the floor, sweep it up immediately. “One Tylenol® or ibuprofen tablet can kill a cat,” says Dr. Dullard. “Tylenol® causes a condition in which the cat’s blood cannot carry oxygen, while ibuprofen can cause severe gastrointestinal bleeding, liver and kidney damage and seizures and tremors.”

Household products are also a concern. Don’t use toilet bowl cleansers if there’s the slightest chance your cat may drink from the toilet. Keep cleaning agents, fabric softener sheets, pesticides, paints and varnishes locked up and away from your cat’s curious forays. The same goes for poisonous substances you may keep in your basement, including windshield cleaners, weed and rodent killers and used motor oils. Many cats are attracted to the sweet taste of antifreeze, containing the chemical ethylene glycol, which is so toxic “that it can poison your cat if she walks through a puddle of antifreeze and merely licks it off her paws.”

Remove Harmful Plants

Cats do like plants and that can be a problem for you and your cat. While some plants are safe to have around the house, many are not. Plants can cause anything from vomiting and diarrhea to renal failure and even death. Get a complete list of poisonous plants from your veterinarian. In particular, watch out for these plants: Tiger lily, Easter lily, holly berries, hibiscus, mistletoe, philodendron, amaryllis and plants of the nightshade family. Cover the soil of potentially harmful plants with aluminum foil to prevent your cat from digging in it, decreasing the chances of your cat then turning to the plant as a treat. As an alternative, grow a pot of lawn grass for your cat to chew on.

Some Extra Precautions

According to the National Safety Council, about 5000 fires a years are caused by pets chewing electrical cords. Tack extension cords against a baseboard or run them under a carpet so your cat won’t chew or play with them. And never leave your cat alone in the house with lighted candles . . .”

We hope this article will help you anticipate some of the ways your kitten or cat can get into trouble, so you can safely redirect that mischievousness!

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Cats Healthy Diet

Written by Steven Fletcher on December 10, 2011

I’m reading the ingredients of the dry cat food I provide for my cats healthy diet. The first three ingredients are “chicken by-product meal”, “corn gluten meal” and “ground yellow corn” followed by a bunch of other “meals”, “byproducts”, vitamins, minerals and chemicals. Then I see that this cat food has been “formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Cat Food Nutrient Profiles for maintenance.” So that’s good right? I mean my cats are pretty healthy and they’ve been eating this dry cat food along with the same manufacturer’s canned food for most of their lives.

Actually, maybe not so good, according to Justine S. Patrick in research she published as a Harvard law student. Patrick says that the AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials) has been given the responsibility for regulating the production of pet foods, but members of the pet food industry heavily influence how the AAFCO does its job, and not in a good way.

Here’s an excerpt from Patrick’s study, entitled “Deconstructing the Regulatory Façade: Why Confused Consumers Feed their Pets Ring Dings and Krispy Kremes.”

AAFCO’s rules fall short of ensuring that America’s pets receive adequate nutrition, or even foods that won’t cause chronic digestive, skin, eye, and coat problems. The influence by the pet food industry over AAFCO manifests itself through AAFCO’s irrational regulations, including ingredient definitions which effectively prohibit organic chickens and vegetables, while blindly permitting thousands of euthanized cats and dogs to make their way into pet foods through the unsupervised rendering industry. Trusting, but uneducated, consumers purchase these commercial pet foods under the assumption that the FDA or some other regulatory body has ensured that the foods contain “balanced” meals, and “complete” nutrition. These consumers naively believe veterinarians that endorse and sell pet foods from their offices while neglecting to mention that these “pet doctors” are often “on the take” and can earn up to 20% of their total income from such sales.”

Click here for Justine Patrick’s complete published research. (Warning, this paper contains some very unsettling information!)

Did you know also that several dry pet food recalls (think China) have occurred because of contamination by toxic chemicals, bacteria (salmonella and others), fungal mycotoxins, and storage mites? Not only am I disgusted and revolted by these risks and Patrick’s claims, but now I’m not sure what to feed my cats. Making them an occasional treat is fine, but I don’t have time to make all of their food. However, according to veterinarian Lisa Pierson, in her article published in catinfo.org “Feeding Your Cat: Know the Basics of Feline Nutrition,” there are more risks associated with dry cat food, and she recommends a diet of canned cat food, or homemade cat food, if made correctly. In another article, Dr. Pierson says “cats are designed to eat a high protein (~50% of calories, or more), moderate fat (~40% of calories or less), and very low carbohydrate (well below 10% of calories) diet.”

Here’s an excerpt from Dr. Pierson’s article published in catinfo.org, entitled “Commercial Food.”

Here are a few general guidelines that I like to focus on:

Stick with poultry (chicken and turkey) and rabbit as the bulk of your cat’s diet. Fish and beef are common food allergens in the cat and can cause inflammatory bowel disease and skin allergies in some cats. Think ‘feathers and long ears’, not ‘horns and fins’.

Fish is also more apt to be contaminated with heavy metals and PBDEs. PBDEs are fire retardant chemicals that have a possible link to hyperthyroidism. Because fish is so palatable to most cats, many cat foods do contain some fish so be careful to read the labels.

If you want to feed a fish-based food as a treat, please limit it to once or twice a week. (That said, I do not feed my cats any fish on a regular basis. Luckily, most of my cats don’t even like fish.)

Look for a muscle meat as the first ingredient – rather than a by-product or liver. This will be listed as “chicken” or “turkey” – not “chicken by-products” or “meat by-products”, or “liver”. However, please keep in mind that any canned food is better than any dry food – even canned foods like Friskies or 9-Lives that are by-product based – because they usually have the Big Three covered:

1) They all contain an appropriate (high) water content – critical for urinary tract health.

2) They are usually lower in carbohydrates than dry food. (Hill’s and Purina are notable exceptions. In order to enhance their profit margin, these companies make canned foods that are often very high in carbohydrates).

3) All or most of the protein comes from animals – not plants. (Again, Hill’s and Purina are 2 examples of companies that use high levels of grains to enhance profit margin. Therefore, a significant portion of the protein in some of their canned foods come from plants.)

Update July, 2011: It is no secret (among those who know me well) that the commercial pet food industry frustrates the heck out of me. With regard to the comment above advising to look for a muscle meat as the first ingredient, please be aware that most of the grain-free/no by-product/muscle meat choices such as Wellness, Nature’s Variety, EVO 95%, etc. are very high in fat and relatively low in protein in order to keep the profit margin high.

Given this fact, I can’t help but wonder if Friskies, 9-Lives, etc. (all by-products, no muscle meat) may actually be better diets because many of these by-product foods are higher in protein and lower in fat than the more expensive diets that are free of by-products.”

I have great respect and appreciation for the research, expertise and sharing of knowledge by Justine Patrick and Dr. Lisa Pierson, and also greater appreciation for what a cats healthy diet means.

Click here to visit the original source of Dr. Pierson’s article

Image credit: “Num Num Num” by Carl242/Flickr

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Feline Health – Cat Safe Holidays

Written by Steven Fletcher on December 8, 2011

Do you have a recipe for cat safe holidays? Whether it’s Hanukkah, Christmas or Kwanzaa, the excitement of the holidays means a disruption to routine for our pets. Decorations to be played with, strange foods and odors, unexpected visits by strangers and other people, the list goes on. With all the unusual activity during the holidays, it can be easy to overlook its impact on our cats. Sociable cats may want to be part of all the activities but others may go into hiding. Dr. Lorie Huston has just written an article in PetMD.com, with some suggestions to protect your cats health and safety.

Here’s an excerpt from her article.

Keep Your Cat Safe and Healthy During the Holidays

The holidays bring with them decorations, gifts, good foods, and lots of activity as people visit friends and family to spread the good cheer. But to our cats these things translate into new “toys” to play with that may not be entirely safe, foods that probably shouldn’t be shared, and strange people coming into our territory.

What can you do to help make the holidays safer and more enjoyable for your cat? Remember that ribbons and tinsel are tempting toys for a curious feline. But if your cat swallows these objects, they can cause serious problems if they get “stuck” in the intestinal tract or wrapped around your cat’s tongue. Keep these types of decorations out of the reach of your cat. If you put up a Christmas tree for the holidays, your cat may be tempted to taste the water at its base. Unfortunately, that same water may be stagnant or filled with fertilizers, preservatives, or other chemicals which are unsafe for your cat. Many of the holiday plants that are popular this time of year are dangerous for our cats. Though poinsettias are generally over-rated in terms of their potential for toxicity, they can still cause mild intestinal upset for your cat. More importantly, holly can be very toxic, as can some types of mistletoe. In addition, lilies can be deadly for your cat and are often found in holiday flower arrangements. Do not leave these plants where your cat can chew on them.

Be careful about sharing your favorite holiday treats with your cat. Chocolate and many other types of foods can be dangerous. Scented candles and potpourri are popular holiday decorations as well. Though they make our homes smell wonderful, they may be dangerous for curious cats. Even worse, an open flame can easily become a fire hazard if knocked over by your cat. Many of the decorations we enjoy during the holidays are electric, and the cords can become a target for a playful cat. Biting into an electrical cord can pose an electrocution threat for your cat. Be cautious of dangling cords and place them where your cat cannot access them.

Be sure to spend a little extra time with your feline friend during the holidays. A little extra attention from you may help ease some of the tension of the holidays for your cat. Make certain your cat has a place to retreat when company arrives if he feels the need. Your cat’s safe place should have a litter box, a food and water station, and a soft comfortable place to rest. It should be a private area where guests are not allowed.”

We wish you all cat safe holidays and a peaceful and enjoyable season. We would love to hear any holiday stories involving your cats, just use the comment section below. Thanks.

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Image credit: “climbing in the christmas tree” by Susan E. Adams/Flickr

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Cats Health – Recovery from Tragedy | Cat who was set on fire is now the hero of a children’s book

Written by Steven Fletcher on December 6, 2011

Cats health can’t be taken for granted when you consider that they’re pretty small animals compared to dogs, automobiles or even malicious humans. The story of Hadley the cat, who was nearly burned to death, is both heart wrenching and uplifting. Terry Finch Hamilton, writing in the Grand Rapids Press, tells Hadley’s story. It’s hard to believe that anyone could be so cruel as to burn such a sweet, sociable cat, but the story ends happily both for Hadley and his new adoptive family. Hadley’s recovery was heart-warming enough to inspire Grand Rapids author Sue Stauffacher to write a book about him, with profits going to the Humane Society.

Here’s an excerpt from Ms. Hamilton’s article in the Grand Rapids Press.

GRAND RAPIDS — Hadley is at the door, poised to greet — tail up, whiskers silky, cheeks ready to rub. Sure, he looks a little worse for wear. There are patches where his skin shows and fur won’t grow back. His ears are a tad smaller than they should be. But for a cat who was once set on fire, he is looking pretty dapper. . .

The new book, “Hadley’s Happy Ending” . . . tells the saga of this popular cat, cruelly soaked in gasoline and set on fire in the summer of 2009. He had wandered away from home and showed up three days later, severely burned. His distraught owners surrendered him to the Humane Society of West Michigan when they couldn’t afford the thousands of dollars for his medical care. The staff named him Hadley and began the painstaking task of healing him. The orange-and-white tabby, now 4, suffered third-degree burns over his ears, neck, back, legs and part of his face. His whiskers and eyelashes were burned off. The tops of his ears were so badly burned they fell off. Police never found the perpetrator.

His happy ending? He was adopted by 24-year-old Sarah Uzarski, who worked at the Humane Society when Hadley was there and formed a close bond with the affectionate cat. Grand Rapids author Sue Stauffacher volunteered to write Hadley’s story, and all the profits from the $15 book’s sale go to the Humane Society. “He seduced me into writing his story,” Stauffacher said, who adopted two dogs, Sophie and Tillie, from the Humane Society and has a soft spot for the place. “He pawed at my lap, he batted my hair,” she said. “Hadley courts you. There’s something really special about him.” He knows it. . .

“It’s amazing how trusting he is, after what he’s been through,” said Uzarski, a longtime animal lover with a degree in zoology from Michigan State University. “He’s almost like a dog — he’s the first one to greet me at the door,” she said. Hadley ignored the dog remark and keeps purring. “I’m so thankful I have him,” Uzarski said. “He’s the best cat I could ask for.” And lucky. He is fresh from a checkup with his veterinarian, Dr. Wendy Swift, at the Ottawa Animal Hospital. Swift, the former veterinary director at the Humane Society of West Michigan, cared for Hadley during his stay there and will be “his forever vet,” Uzarski said. She gave the feline a clean bill of health, she added.

Stauffacher, author of more than a dozen books for children, calls the book “a wonderful tale about healing after tragedy.” She envisions kids who were burned or who survived abuse connecting with Hadley, the cat who never gave up. “The Humane Society staff said it was clear that Hadley wanted to live,” Stauffacher said. “Despite what must have been incredible pain he was in, he was affectionate and responsive. Life has some painful moments, but if you keep trying, you’ll prevail” . . .

“So many people who never even met Hadley sent their love and support,” Uzarski said. “People from all over the world sent donations for his care; kids made cards for him. It warmed my heart to know people cared about this poor cat.” She smiled. “I think those good thoughts helped him heal,” she said. Hadley, intently watching a squirrel frolic outside the window, flicked his striped tail and exhibited what his biographer Stauffacher claims is his trademark feature. “He has catitude,” she said.”

Hearing Hadley’s story inspires us all, and reminds us why we care for our cats. Especially in this holiday season we are grateful for our cats health, and for the great jobs performed by our local animals shelters, Humane Societies and SPCAs.

Click here to visit the original source of this post

Image credit: Hadley the Cat by Cory Morse/The Grand Rapids Press

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